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Diary   2019

 

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Start of year surf days 1404 
January  Sagres  2019.. Surf days 1419 end of month
01..Mareta..Low water. Perfect day 
02..Castelejo..Windy . Surfed the big peak twice
03..Amado..Very good. Surfed 3 hours.
04..Amado..Brilliant day.Bought LUFI 9.6 nose rider.
05..Zavial..Very good for long board.
06..Amado..800 KJ day.I surfed white water. 5 surfers surfed big set further out.
07..Amado..Surf white water 600 KJ day.
08..Castelejo..Used 9.6. Very good condition 200 KJ.
09..Castelejo igen. Getting a bit crowded.
10..Cordoama. Surfed South of small island. Some big sets from time to time.
11..Mareta..Turned out to be very good. 3 surfers only.
12..Cordoama..Got the tide wrong. Difficult beach.
13..Fantastic Amado..Big mellow swell.Great take off with 9.6 nose rider.
14..Amado..Sun , nice , reasonable waves.
15..Amado.. Good fat swell. Enjoyed it. Surf day 1419
 
 
January  Fuerteventura  2019.. Surf days 1425
Fly to Fuerte 19 January. Stay at Maradentro , right at the beach, in front of Rocky point. Join surf school Homegrown, very good. Rented a board from Homegrown. A good epoxy 9.2. Surfed alone 3 days and with surf school 4 days.
Did some sight seeing with rental car as well.
Weather was cool, with quite a bit of cloud. However when sun came out, people were on the beach.
Rocky point best with 1.5 meter and 300 KJ. I should have rented a car all the time with roof rack or brought a soft rack.
Ended up with a bad lumbago, but lucky me 3 days before fly home, enough days to almost complete recover. Thanks to Vegan?? Next year a full month with more people !!
 
February  Sagres  2019.. Surf days 1444 end of month
04..Amado. Very good day.
05..Bordeira.3 feet swell.
07..Puerto Moss. Only worked with the sets, else flat. Swell 3,7m 311 deg..
08..Tonel. Just big enough in West end. Swell 2,9m 316 deg.
09..Mareta, smallish.
10..Mareta , not very big.
11..Baranco, a rare visit.
12..Tonel
13..First Mareta then Tonel.Sunny nice.
15..Mareta..Max condition for me SE 1,2 m
16..Mareta. Big waves.Managed to get out and get 1 heavy wave, just right.
17..Mareta
19..Puerto Moss. Very good. Sunny
20..Looked at Tonel, but big sets  coming in. Then Beliche. Steep, but 9,6 feet LUFI worked well.
21..First Tonel. 1,1 to 1,5 m. After a few surf gave up. Too big. Then Mareta. SE swell 1.4 surf zone. After 1 wave I gave up. Too big.
22.. Mareta. 0,9 to 1,4 in surfzone. Fatum board. Had a set hit me and was hold down for 15 ssec. Released life vest. Had some trouble finding the release, but eventually it worked well.
23..Mareta again at LW. NW swell coming around. Quite good at first , then getting crowded.
24..Mareta, difficult winterswell. Sunny warm. First summer day. Swell 3m 288  deg.
27..Mareta. Very good.
 
Marts  Sagres  2019.. Surf days 1459 end of month.
03..Mareta. Very difficult. primary swell 3,2 m
03..Pt Moss. Very good. 3,1 m NW swell.
04..Pt Moss. Sort of bumpy
06..Mareta. 4,2 m NW swell.
07..Mareta. Quite big.
08..Zavial . Max size for me.
09..Tonel. Again a max day.
10..Boca de Rio. First time there.
11..Igrinna
12..Beliche early start. Good. NW swell 2 m.
13..Ingrinna.
14..Beliche on a good for longboard day.
15..Beliche.
16..Amado. Could not get out. 500 KJ waves.
30..Tonel. Nice waves, sunny.
31..Castelejo. Big swell. Only me aand a few other surfers out.  0,6-10-296
 
Some video from Marts and April.
video/190303portomossmobil.mp4  3Mb
video/190402castelejofb.mp4  11Mb
video/190414amado_fb.mp4  6Mb
video/20190408amado_movi.mp4  6Mb
video/20190408amado_max.mp4  55 Mb
 
April  Sagres  2019.. Surf days 1480 end of month.
01..Zavial with Mike and Daniel. NN
02..Castelejo. Great swell. Only me and Uve .Make Video. 1-10-317
03...Tonel
04..Amado. Paddle out in front of Cheringito. Then drift South. Surf "Big White" twice, very exciting.
       T 2,2m-10s-333deg 1000kj
07..Pt Moss.
08..Strong rip in front of chiringito. Took me straight to " Big White" surfed twice. Long surf.
       T1,8-10-287 800 kj lw+1 to +2  video
11..Ingrinna . Very good. T2,0-12-308
12..Ingrinna. very good T2-12-308 lw-1 +2
13..Amado , quite big.
14..Amado. Quite big. T1,5-400kj. After 2 days in big swell boyth Ian and I are exhausted.
18..Mareta
20 Castelejo. Rough.
21..First Bordeira. Surfed the wave as it reformed, 3 rd time. Then Amado, but  could only get a bit out
      T1,9 100 kj
22..Amado. Very good. T 1,3 500kj
24..Mareta
25..Pt Moss
26..Pt Moss
27..Mareta..
28..Mareta
29..Mareta..
30..Amado. Ordered California Dreaming
 
May  Sagres and North Spain  2019.. Surf days 1497 end of month.
01..Surf Sagres area until 21 May. 10 days
22. leave for surfing in 50+ group in Oyambre
26..Surf Gerra beach.    2 feet waves, overcast and drizzle.
27..First day at 50 + surf course. 3 groups 9 people.  Good waves.
28..Surfing at Parajito Amarillo. catching a lot of wave.
29. Surf PA again. very good waves. Swapped board with Georg, and surfed his 8 feet soft top.
30..Surfing at Gerra. North East wind blowing out the waves.
31..0.7 m . Still windy, but I managed to surf some wave anyway
 
June North Spain and France St Girons plage.  2019.. Surf days 1514 end of month.
01..Surf Gerra 08.00 in the morning. Very good. With Georg
02.. Gerra again. Morning surf with Georg. Very good waves.
../video/190602 gerra cleanwaves.mp4  Clean waves at Gerra beach.
../video/190602 gerra surfwhitewater.mp4  Gerra beach. A surfer is surfing a already broken wave.
08..At St Girons. A big storm swept through the area yesterday, Less waves now , so I surfed a little already broken waves. First I was alone, but then more surfers came out.
09..Two surf with Phillip. Morning during high water, and no wind. Very good, 1 m. Later surf again at mid tide. I got 1 wave far of the coast as it was breaking first time, and surfed all the way to the beach, but had to bail as the surf school was in front of me. Difficult due to wind cross wave.
10..First surf in morning at high water. Quite big and breaking close to beach. At 17.00 again, but now windy and small.
11..Surf in morning. Afternoon rain.
12..Surf in morning. 1 m glass. had maybee 20 waves, some nice drops. Could walk at the board.
14..Surf in morning. First surfing secondary breaks. As primary were closing out. Then surfing primary break, but after wave had started to break. Had 1 fantastic trip all the way to the beach.
15..Morning surf ok.
Leaving 16 driving to Lisboa Praia Caparica. Arrivr 19. Here I visited the LUFI shop and their small museum. The shop is right next to a Tryp beach front hotel in the area with the stone jetties, that makes some good waves.
It turned out that they knew who i was, after wee got to talk a bit. They informed me that my new board California Dream is waiting for me in Sagres.
 
Back in Sagres
23..Bordeira. First day with LUFI California dream. It seemed to work well. Got 2 overhead waves.
24..Bordeira. Nice. Very big. 2 m. First surfing center, then as it was being crowded there, I mooved to South end and was alone there.
25.. Amado , very good, silky. Surfed Cordoama in afternoon. From lineup to beach 3 times.
26..Amado. First good, then Hi water and swell got different. Start 9.00 hours.
27.. Cordoama. Very good. Silky. Early start and alone most of the time.
28..1 m swell Cordoama. With overlay of wind swell, however no wind on beach.
29..Amado. ! - 1.5 m wind chop in top of ground swell.
30..Castelejo. Managed to get out near high water, and found nice big waves, even if it was a windy day, no wind on this beach.
../video/190628cordoamamov.mp4
../video/190629amadomovi.mp4
../video/190630castelejo.mp4
 
6 month gone 110 surf days during first half year of 2019. Total 1514
 
July  2019.. Surf days 1534 end of month.
01..Cordoma. Surfed 2 times. 1.7 meter. Difficult to get out. Once out brilliat. Surfed from first break to beach.
02..Cordoama. Still very good. 2 sessions
03..Amado at 17.00. 1.5 m.
04..Surf morning and evening
05..06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..24..25..27..28..29..30..31 Cordoama..Amado..Castelejo
I was surfing LUFI California dream all month. A new board I just got.
video/190701corcoamamovi.mp4
video/190705cordoamamovi.mp4
video/190712castelejomovi.mp4
 
August 2019.. Surf days 1556 end of month.
01.02.03.05.07.08.09.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19.21.22.27.28.29.30
Everybody say high wind during summer destroy surf. I had 22 surf days during August. Some days were very exiting. I had some very good surf some days. Sitting far from the beach waiting for the big sets to arrive, and were rewarded many times. Whole month at beaches around Sagres.
video/190802castelmovi.mp4
 
September 2019.. Surf sessions 1580 end of month.
02..03..04..Sagres area
12.14.15.16.16.17.17.18.18.19.19.20.22.23.24.25.26.27.28.29.30.
Beaches in San Vivente de Barquera in the Spanish province of Cantabria. Very good and good conditions. Waves are more mellow than Sagres. Lots of glassy days. Parking , big, at the beach, in one end. Walk to beach from camping. Several pensions in area in 40..50 E range from mid September, as this is start of  low season. Weather has been very good until now ( sunday 22 ). I join a surf course arranged by surfnsoul.com , for surfers over 50 years. All levels. It is a bi annual event , growing in number.
video/190930pa1mov.mp4 ( catching 19 waves on video in 3 hours) 26 MB
 
Octobre 2019.. Surf sessions 1600 end of month.
1.2.2. Oyambre area. Still good weather.
Driving back from Oyambre to Sagres I was visiting several beaches South from Setabul. The first being in the Comporta area.
Beach at Comporta Tent at Gale camping  Beach at Gale camping
Beach North of Milfonte  Beach Sao Torpe  Beach at Milfontes
 
10.11.12.13.15.16.19.Sagres area
20.21.22.Sao Torpe
24.25.26.28.29.30.31 Sagres area
 
 
video/191031mossmovi.mp4             Puerto Moss
video/191025saotorpemovi.mp4        Sao Torpe
 
November 2019.. Surf sessions 1609 end of month. Total year 205
01 Zavial. Surfed 25 white water waves.
02 PT Moss.
05 Pt Moss. Good surf.
07 Beliche. Nice small waves.
24 Beliche
25 Beliche
27 Ingrinna. First one in. Very god.
29 Beliche
30 Castelejo. Difficult to get out. Then I went  for outlying breaks. They turned out to be overhead. Got one wave
video/191105mossfb.mp4
video/191130castelejofb.mp4   Trying the outlying breaks in Castelejo
Pt Moss         Beliche               Weather in November
Zavial             Cats on the car
 
December 2019.. Surf sessions 1630 end of month. Total year 226
01..Pt Moss. Small, barely surfable.
03..Tonel. Some current made waves bumpy.
03..Mareta
04.. Zavial. Surf white water only
05..Zavial.
06..Mareta. Very good.
07..Zavial. Nice waves around high water.
09..Zavial. Good surf at Hw.
11..Zavial. Surfbefore high water.
13..Moss. Small surfable waves
14..Moss. Only small waves.
16..Moss. Not able to get out. Surf white water.
17..Mareta. Good size swell.
18..Mareta. On shore . Surfed several times from line up to shore.
21..Mareta. Hit by fin in lower leg.
25..Mareta . Just surfable.
26..Mareta. Very small but clean. Several waves just before breaking on beach.
27..Mareta. just big enough to surf.
28..Mareta. This time big enough.
30. Mareta. Close out at low water.
31. Mareta. Waves steeping rapidly.
 
video/191205zavfb.mp4   Almost getting tubed
video/191209zavfb.mp4   Good size wave at Zav
video/191213mossfb.mp4   The first surf show how easy you can turn a longboard along the waave.
video/191216mossfb.mp4
video/191226fb.mp4    Surfing very small waves on LUFI Californai Dream board.
video/191211zavfb.mp4   A short report from a beach day.