I flew to Santander today. The first
trip in the water was during the afternoon. I was looking forward to try
my new pop up.
Unfortunately it did not work. On the beach I do it perfectly. On the
board I can not do it. That was disappointing. Monday I start classes,
then I will ask the teacher.
At 10 O-Clock I was at the beach. Only a handful of people at that hour.
No wind and great silky waves. Later the wind came up. The beach had
filled with the Sunday crowd, but red flag was up and the lifeguards
were serious about it. Only the surfers were allowed in. I am now using an other pop up. It is called the
Aussie sprinter technique. View a video
I had a look at
WindGuru. The week looks promising. Up to 4.5
Oyambre beach . Only small waves today
Oyambre beach . Surfrs with their boards
street at the camping
home for the coming week
Today I started
classes with our local surf school. The teacher knew the problem
well that there is a difference between making a pop up on the beach,
and then try the same on the board.
I demonstrated the super pop up. He was impressed. 95 % correct. He
So I guess that I will not give up yet.
18..00 hours classes finished. Now I was so tired that I could hardly
make it back up to the car.
I had a lazy day. Shopping and
cleaning. Not much of a swell anyway. Tomorrow we are heading for
another beach. More protected, as the weather is changing.
group at the surf school
training further down the beach
The beach looking
towards San Vicente
We are getting the
On the beach. The waves does not look a lot. However they were perfect
for me. Some 4 feet. Clean silky swell. The best conditions for a
learner. I had some good take offs from unbroken waves. Everybody were
very impress, included me.
Oyambre beach on a
nice sunny September day.
It is not me. This is a near perfect take off. There is unbroken wave to
the left of the surfer. He is trying hard to turn the board. He can not
make a sharp turn however, because the rail is submerged in all its
It is not me.Surfing a plunging shorebreak is not an easy task. You
better be on your feet with a good speed so that wall of white
water does not hit you.
.Already friday. Last day of this course. Luckey me there is another
course in the week end. I have signed on.
The day started
quiet. Later the swell came in at 3 feet +. It was however quite bumpy.
I was in the water some 5 hours. It is not me at that video clip.
The last day. I was
at the beach at 10.00. No wind. 3 feet nice oily looking swell. Just
perfect for me.
I was catching waves. I was riding the wall for the second time in my
life. Not a bad day to end this vacation.Now I am in the airport
waiting for the late flight back home.
Wednsday 17 Sep
Afternoon trip to Sa
Marina. The sea is nice and warm, so I stayed in 2 hours.
Thursday 18 Sep
The wind has changed
to South West. I had a afternoon trip to Playa de Palma.
I have remooved the passenger seat in the car. Now I can have the board
inside the car. Also it i a comfortable changing "room"
Friday 19 Sep 2009
Another afternoon at
the Playa de Palma beach. The car worked well. I had a sleep in the car
before I started surfing. Then the session went on until sun down.
Am I improving?? Hard to tell, but it does not feel so.
Saturday 20 Sep
I was up early . The conditions were
perfect. 5 feet oily looking swell, no wind. With a swell like this I
can ride the wall.
I can see what is coming now. Hours waiting for the swell to be right.
Lucky me that I have a comfortable car.
Monday and Tuesday
21 and 22 Sep 2009
days I went to the North coast. To much wind. A waste of time because it
is a long drive.
The following photos are me in the car after the front passenger
seat has been removed. I can change in comfort out of the wind ( and
during the winter, protected from the cold ). Also I can take a short
sleep before the drive back.
I can store the surf board inside the car, and I leave it there
overnight and bring it to work. In case some swell is coming.
A bigger surf van would be better, but I have only one parking space
where I live, and that space is small.
If I have passengers along, then the surf board is strapped to the roof
rack, and the we still can seat 4 persons in the car.
Getting out of the
Power nap before
the drive home.
There is just enough space for the surfboard. It is
almost 10 feet.
The last step is to get the items out from the car that I do not
need. Then I will get a 4 litre thermo bottle to bring some warm water
to rinse the salt off.
For longer trips a
roof box and a
And by the way, suitcase is packed, I
am returning to Oyambre beach day after tomorrow.
Saturday 26 Sept
2009. Oyambre beach
I was out of Palma with the first flight. Arrived at the
camping at 13.00 hours. One hour later I was in the water with the surf
board. The waves were not very good. Tomorrow I will try to get up
A group of surfers. From their tents they can look over
the sea and follow the conditions. September and Octobre should be good
month with the autumn storms over the North Atlantic sending swell down
towards the Spanish coast. However at the moment it is 3 feet only.
Nice swell all day. I spend some 4 hours in the water. Sunshine all day.
some 4 feet swell and many surfers preparing to get out. I start classes
At 16.00 we
met at the beach of Playa de Guerra. The teacher came along with his
surfboard into the sea. And that works. He saw at once some faults in my
wave catching. Once corrected, I was catching waves like never before.
Riding the wall of unbroken water as well, as if I had never done
anything else in my life.
I was surfing my biggest waves ever. During the day the size had picked
up. Tomorrow at 11.00 we continue.
Surfers waiting for the right condition. Some
drive 2000 Km. to get here. Photo above.
I had a bad
sesssion. Could not catch the waves. They had a size that was freaking
me out a bit. Dropping in on a 6 foot wave as a beginner surfer,
is a challenge. Now I will have some lunch and plan the rest of the day.
Late in the afternoon I went to the beach again. Here I found out why I
make perfect pop up on a floor, but not on the surfboard. I need
feets as a leverage, to swing my
buttom up, and the legs need to be
I now tried to place a few
toes on the surf board, just in time for the pop up. That helped. The
pop up is now near perfect. The board flat on top of the water. The
speed is faster than before.
Remember when you throw a stone and
it skims the water surface. You want the same to happen with your surf
board. High speed mean minimum friction. That is where the fun starts.
daily routine continues with tuition from 11 until 01 o'clock. Waves are
perfect. It is private lessons, I am the only pupil. The instructor is
with his own board right next to me. It is very effective and I am
learning a lot very quickly.
The last day with instructor. We only
had 2 feet swell. Never the less I was surfing the wall.
I started off in Sa
Marina surfing. Some swell was coming from an aproatching storm. There
were more than 10 surfers already. I was doing well. Maybee one of the
best, because now the tuition has been putting a lot of things in
the right perspective. Especially in the phase of where to catch the
wave and how.
At 13.00 hours I had my first lesson
in Kite surfing. Interesting to say the least. Afterwards I went back to
Sa Marina, but by now the wind was strong, so I took a power nap in the
car and drove home.
It was time to try to fly the kite.
It started off quite well, but after a few attempts , the wind died.
I drowe to Muro beach. Windy and 4 feet waves. Difficult to get any
clean waves. After about an hour I was worn out from the constant ,
being tossed about, and called it the quit. Tomorrow I will try again.
Muro beach again today. As I arrived the wind died away.
Creating very good conditions. I was surfing some good waves. It was
actualy clouse outs, but good to practise catching them early. And
I succeded quite well. A sun set I stopped.
beach again. A couple of hours before sun set the wind seem to
ease off and you get some good waves for a while. Unfortunately there is
no peak as such. It is good training for take off however.
The next event is planned. Sagres
Portugal 8 / 14 November 2009
I arrived with
Airberlin on time. Picked up my hire car, and an hour later I was in
Sagres where I stay in a surf house.
The rest of the Sunday I was looking at the local beaches.
a few kilometres from Sagres. It wqas a steep fast shorebreak. Not quite
Beach in the center
Monday we went to a beach near Lagos. The swell was not
more than 2 feet at best, but the west coast was to exposed to 3-4 metre
swell. Tomorrow the swell will ease off, an we should get a day with
Tudesday - Loading
the gear in front of surf house in Sagres.
along the Atlantic coast, looking for some good swell. The first beach
we reached after following some dirt tracks. However the wind was still
strong, so we drove on, along the coast.
some 50 km. we arrived at another beach. Here we spend all day. The
conditions were a bit to complicated for me. After a few try in the
unbroken water, |I did whitewater. Very few people around. Sun shining
Our surf instructor is checking surf
conditions on his mobile..
Wednsday - An other day with a early
start. That is 9.30. Again along the Atlantic coast. It was supposed to
be a calm day. A lot of white water, but the unbroken waves were to big
for me as a beginner. What I learned was to take a dep breath before I
was rolled over by a wave, and if in doubt if the wave is going to break
then better do the "Eskimo turn". I was using a 9 feet long board for
At low water the waves started to
close out, so the rest of the day was relaxing. Sun shine all day.
Photos from the day below. Click on
thumbnail photo to zoom.
Thursday - The day of the point breaks. It does not look
a lot from a distance, but the swell was big enough. It took some time
before I felt comfortable. Well to tell the truth, I thought it was
quite complicated. Swell biggish and it was crowded. Sun shining
Thursday - The West coast was closed due to
high swell. We wisited several places on the South coast.
Eventually we setteled for the beach in Sagres centre. Nothing
fantastic, but a lot of take off and trying to ride a small wave as long
as possible. Out in the horizon you could see the swell ride along as
small hills. You could tell that a big storm was loose somewhere.
a great trip. I met a lot of nice people. In
Sagres I was joining a week surf camp with Sagres Natura. Waves
every day from beginners and advanced surfers. The more you enter the
winter season the higher waves you get.
never used a surf board before, it is best to start during the summer
season. There you have more groups with different levels. We had one
group. All had joined one or more courses before.
04 Dec 2009
I just managed to get an hour surf today friday. I notised that even if
windguru was predicting 30 Knots, then an our
before sunset, the wind died. It lasted for half an hour and
created very good conditions. I have noticed this effect before and will
now look more into it.
there is not a lot to say. I am getting better is staying low on the
board. This I can feel is important. The balance is much better.
I was on
the beach until sun set. The water felt comfortable, but the real gain
is that I can sit in the car and change into the wet suit.
I have booked a week
to Sagres Portugal. Departure 6 of Decembre 2009
The day started with overcast and
chilly. Later we had rain as well.
during the afternoon, sunshine and pleasant weather. The good waves were
hard to find. We visited several beaches and eventually settled for
the beach right in the center of Sagres.
Tu 08 12 2009
A great day with a
lot of surf. My limbs are well worn out. Tomorrow we plan to go to
the same place. It is not me on photo.
Tu 08 12
meter swell made the day complicated. Eventually we settled for a beach
near Lagos town. Here the swell were to 1 meter at low water.
It still was a fast
beach break, so I was surfing whitewater using a 9 feet soft top.
tide rising the bigger swell started to come in. We then drove to the
Atlantic coast and had a look. Photo above.
Video ClipMore photos
Thursday 10 Dec 2009
highlight of the day was looking at the body boarders, surfing the
Atlantic swell. Later during the day we went to have a look at the swell
beach near Luz I was surfing some small swell for some hours and had my
errors pointed out by the instructor.
Atlantic swell video clip
Friday 11 Dec 2009
very windy so we were spending most of the day at Tonel beach, doing
some white water surfing and relaxing in the sun, behind a big cliff
that protected us from the wind. The photos are from Tonel beach.
went to Sagres South East beach where the wind had kicked up a decent
swell, and we stayed there until sun set.
the end of my second week with
www.sagresnatura.com I hear several surfers have booked for the x/mas
period. January is closed.
I am back on Mallorca. This evening I
had one half hour on the beach. It was only 2 feet swell, but nice A
shaped. As I was close to the beach. I decided to try and make small
turns from side to side. It went very well. Like I had nothing else all
my life. It just felt right.
Also it went very vell to change into
the wet suit inside the car. It was 12 deg C outside and raining. I did
not feel cold at all.
Dec 2009 Half hour at Playa de Palma.
Dec 2009 Almost 1 hour near Can Pastilla. It was
almost dark when I got out of the water. I can now see that my fear for
"big waves" have been greatly reduced after the trips to
Dec 2009 Playa de Palma. Nothing
special, but I can feel the shoulders like to be used regularly.
It was a
cold day. On the photo you can see the snow on the mountains. The
temperature on the beach was 7 deg C and it was blowing 25 knots. The
water felt a lot warmer. The current took me along the beach, and I had
to walk for a while to get back to the car. Arriving there my fingers
were so cold and stiff that I could not operate the zip. That followed,
that I could not get the car key that I carry in a small water tight bag
under the wet suit.
course nobody around to assist so I had to chew on my fingers to get
them to work again. That worked. Once inside the car I got the
heating going and was soon comfortable again.
This is the 6 th day in a row I have been
surfing. I had to clear the car window from frost before I went to the
beach. Air temp only 10 deg, but sun shine all day. I think I was in the
water almost 2 hours. I had brought a 5 liter bottle with warm water.
Pour it through the collar opening when you get out of the water. Feels
great. I stored it in a thermo bag, so it lasted all day.
When the sun is
shining and you are away from the wind, then you can still sit outside.
Here I am having a cup of coffee, looking at the waves .
Dec 2009 - The 7 th day surfing. Playa de
Palma. Not the best conditions. Rain and 12 deg C
Dec 2009 - The 8 th day. Good conditions
with 3 feet swell.
Dec 2009 - The 9 th day. Very windy
and 3 feet wavesl.
Difficult to get out, until I found a trick. Paddle from a forward
position, with the tip of board almost under water. When a wave is
approaching, grip the front sides of the board. Head down on the arms.
The makes the wave press you down and you go under the wave. Start
paddling as soon as you can again.
Dec 2009 - Day No 10. Rain and 12 deg C.
But great waves, besides I think the water is 15 deg.
Dec 2009 - Day No. 11.
Excellent day. Sunshine. Great waves.
The waves lasted to noon time. On the
photo a couple of surfers waiting for the next set.
Sunday 27 Dec 2009.
Yesterday was day off. Today I went to Sa Marina. Seems as if I have
lost 2 kg during last 11 days. I will try to get some more
surfdays. So far I can see tomorrow and day after is good.
Monday 28 Dec 2009. Can
Pastilla. Nice swell. I had everything for myself as it was getting
Tirsdag 29 Dec 2009. Can
Pastilla. 4 feet lazy swell.
Wednsday 30 Dec 2009 . Can
Pastilla 1 hr. Sun shine and warm weather..