A storm
had been blowing all night with 40 plus knot wind. Some 30.000 ton ships
that have been sitting at anchor in the bay, lifted anchor yesterday and
took to sea for safety.. Trees were toppled by the wind. The seaside
promenades were full of debris that had been washed onto them.
I was
driving up and down the coast to find a protected spot. I was just about
to give up when I next to Can Pastilla marina saw some surfers. The
trick was to stay very close to the pier when paddling out. There was
some current there helping as well. Getting back in was no problem. The
waves were powerful.
The photo is from Playa de Palma 1
Jan 2010. Lots of foam around.
Saturday 2 Jan 2010.
The wind
had died out overnight. The conditions were now perfect. I was paddling
out to get the biggest waves and had no problems. I think I am getting
used to bigger waves. The fear is slowly vanishing.
Friday 8
Jan 2010. Air temp 5 deg. Heavy rain. However big swell and offshore
wind. Due to the bad veather I had everything for myself.
Saturday 9 Jan
2010. One more day with very good conditions. No other surfers
around. It is still 5 Deg. C. only. However water temp is 14. So I am
fine. My new O'Niel Psyco 2 6/5/3 keeps me warm. Hood and
gloves as well. The gloves gives me more paddling power as well.
The trick is to heat up the car during the drive to the beach and then
change into the Neoprene inside the car. Then I bring some hot tea that
I drink. In a thermo bag I have a 5 liter water bottle with hot water.
After surfing I pour this inside through the neck opening.
If you want the peaks for yourself, then prepare for cold water surfing.
Sunday 10 Jan
2010: Only a small swell, but enough, and it was a sunny day . I
have been surfing more than 20 days during the last month. My paddling
power is getting.
Paddling power means catching more
waves.
Wednsday 13 Jan
2010: Maybe the best day ever. 4 feet swell, no wind and
sunshine.
Sunday 17 Jan
2010 FUERTEVENTURA
I am on my way to Corralejo on
Fuerteventura ( Canary Islanda ).
For many years I wanted to go there. Now I waiting in the airport. This
afternoon I will be there. I booked5 days surfing with
www.homegrown.es/
They work with the hotel
www.corralejobeach.com/gallery.html . Weather
www.windguru.com
Monday 18 Jan 2010:
The trip flying down here was with lot of delay. I arrived late and went
straight to the surf shop to show my face. They talked about the great
waves of more than 6 feet, so I was a bit worried.
As it turned out, they have two groups. Experts and beginners. I am in
the beginner group - again.
We had to wait for the tide and
spend some time in the surfboard factory. It turned out,
that the shaper who build my board back home, used to work for homegrown
here on Fuerteventura.
Eventually we got down to surfing.
The spot was great. It was not the 6 feet side of
the island, but a protected part of the coast South of Corralejo.
I had a 9 feet 2 inch board and was catching more wave than anybody
else.
Visiting the
shapers workshop
Wave on the North
coast. That is where the "A"
team went
Corralejo water front. Lots of small bars and restaurants.
We had a visit to
Cotillo on the West Coast.. The town is very quiet in January. The beach
was partly washed away from prolonged large swell. This place looked
difficult for beginners this time a year. With the arrival of
spring with less swell, the beach will delivered back by the smaller
waves
Then we went to our usual place south from Corralejo. Today it was
more windy and a powerful break over the reef. I still managed to
get through the whitewater and had lots of fun.
Wednsday20 January:
We went to Playa Blanca near the airport. Only small waves, but I
learned 2 important things. First is a trick called a
backside rail grap. As
you take off, grap the right rail with your right hand and this way help to
tilt the board. You can make a faster turn and surf the
wall , or hold the board better on a steep wave.
The
other thing was how to make a full turtle roll. If you are right handed,
make the roll CV, right rail down. To get back up, hold right hand at
the middle of the board rail, continue the roll and when the board has
finished the roll you can pull yourself back on top of it. The roll to
be done in one movement.
Chris
was our instructor today. He is a longboarder from Malibu California.
Below you can see the rail grap trick. Look at
surfer from 42 sec. I will newer be able to
surf waves like this, but trying to touch, or grab the board during take
off, forces you to stay low. Note, you can only use this turn to one
side.
Playa
Blanca, Just South of Rosario, the capital. I am using a 9 feet 2 inch
plastic board. It is wide and stable, good for my 93 Kg. I am catching a
lot of wave with this board.
If looks good, but seconds later the board was popping
out from a heap of foam. As this surfer told me later " To day I have
been drinking a lot of sea water"
If
you know how to do, then it is easy. This is our instructor surfing.
This is how you should stand on a surf board.
Friday 22 January
2010
The last day. We went to flag beach again. I was
using a different board. 8 feet 1 inch x 22 inch and a quarter x 3 inch
thick. it has a pointed front and a lot of nose lift but only a
little rocker. It worked very
well on this fast shore break
Looking for the
swell.
The board I used.
I liked
it here on Fuerteventura. Sun every day. Comfortable temperature. and
surf every day. Not bad for a January vacations.
Homegrown surf school did a good job and the hotel Corralejo Beach is
very comfortable. I had the hotel option with half board. The rooms have
a refrigerator and if you chose self catering, a small section
can be unlocked, and I guess you find some cooking facilities here.
The photo below
is from the area just North of Corralejo, called @ El Muelle @ .
The quality of photo is not good, it is mainly to show the size of the waves
there on an average winter day. WindGuru was reading 2 meters at Rockey
Point that day
MALLORCA
Saturday 30 January
2010: A short sesseion near Can Pastilla. Not very good conditions, but
nice sunshine.
Sunday 31 January
2010: Today I went to Paguera. Long time since I have been there,
and it is actually a good place. Some pretty big waves, but also a lot
of surfers.
I spend about an hour in the water and I was satisfied with my ability
to catch the waves. Paguera was the first place I surfed a wave, lying
on the belly on my inflatable surf board. It has been 3 years ago now.
Friday 06
February 2010: Back to Paguera for some more of
this biggish South West swell.
Tuesday 23
February 2010: First I was down with a cold
for 1 week. Then one week with lower back pain. Today I was out for the
first time. It was great. As soon I was on the board and started to
paddle out, I felt great. I was studying the situation a little. You get
a very good work out of every muscle and joint from paddling on a surf
board. Jumping to the stand was no problem as well. No pain at all. I
was well pleased with the situation.
Thursday
25
February 2010: I went to Paguera. There you find
the biggest waves on the SW coast, but it is quite often a closeout you
will surf. I realize now, that I stopped going there because the large
steep waves scared me. Now it seems that I can surf any wave , or shall
we say getting down the wave without crashing. Actually I think I was
the one catching most wave this afternoon.
Sunday 28 Feb 2010 Fuerteventura again.
Corrallejo is a nice
place. The surf school I use has a good mix of people. All ages,
couples and singles. I feel at home here. There are many schools here. I
use
http://www.homegrown.es They book hotel
for me as well.
I had a good
break through with my surfing here. I managed to look op and see where I
am going. This is a must, and it have taken me to long to achieve this.
I used to look down at the board. A very bad habit. Just as if looking
at your shoes when you walk.
The bad habit is broken. My surfing
took a quantum leap forward in a few days.
Flag Beach
Flag Beach
Rockey Point 2, just South of Corrallejo ( my name) at low water
Packing up.
Looking for surfable waves - But they were hard to find. This is the
coast near Cotillo, in strong onshore wind. Later we surfed at very good
waves at Rockey Point.
Flag beach on a bigish day.
Flag beach on a bigish day.
Flag beach on a bigish day.
Large swell on
Rockey point outer reef.
Flag beach
Fuerteventura
Big surprise,
Carnival just started.
There are a few
places where you can rent SUP boards in Correlejo. For those who like to
try this. For those who already know, then you can paddle across the
small bay and if conditions are right ( mostly during winter season
) then there are suitable swell on Rockey Point.
The photo is a small group on a
excoursion along the waterfront.
09 Mar 2010 Mallorca Alcudia . The air was 7 Deg C, it
was windy. Raining a bit and getting dark. The waves were plunging close
out. Not surfable, but a lot of white water. That was the situation this
afternoon in Alcudia bay. There was a strong current, so I only stayed
in the water 1 hour. Below 2 photos from the area.