It is a bit frightening when you try to pop up correctly and
then fall in front of the wave. Next thing the wave is breaking and you
are sinking into the white water. I am using a surf life vest for
the same reason. I blow it up when I am sitting at the line up, using
the mouth piece. Also i tend to lie on the board and " body board" down
the wave, to see how things develope.
Here is a comment
from my log:
that popping up without a good steep wall of water, is
difficult. There I prefer to use my knees. Big green waves takes
les paddling and it is easy to pop up as the board is falling away
under you, so you only have to pull the legs up under you.
Update after 780 days
I can now do a proper pop up,
without any discomfort, like back pain. I do not use it every time, only
if the wave seems right. Which is a steepishof surfing wave. It helped a lot
when I started to do more regally exercise. Lying on the floor, then
pulling the legs to a position under my body. I slide the feet on the
floor. Use a pair of thick socks. End update after 780 days>>
I have pretty much given up to do a
proper pop up. Now I first get to my knees. But i am surfing, and
catching a lot of wave.
If you are an older person like me ( 64 years ) you can try doing the pop up more slowly using
I am experimenting with surfing the first part of the
wave as a kneesurfer. As soon that I feel that I have the wave, I
get to my knees. Lean to one side. You turn in that direction. If the
wave looks as if it is just about to break, then I go straight down and
lean back to keep the board from pearling. Or hold in one rail (
rail grab ) to get a sharp turn
You then have more time to look around at the line up, if
somebody are trying to take off from the same
wave. Also you avoid a lot of nasty falls.
I believe older people simply have
not got the fast reactions and the flexibility, as you find in a young person. Your surf
style must therefore follow different rules.
Turning, or changing direction with
that surfboard has caused me a lot of problems. This is where I am now
2012 after 6 years of surfing. Board is 9 feet 2 inch.
Easy turn. Press with your toes or heels. Your feet must be at a close
to 90 degree angle to the board diagonal line.
turn. Move the back foot more aft towards the fin. Kick the board to the
new direction and move back foot back to maintain or gain speed.
When I say kick, it is because I am not sure what I am doing.
You may not need to move your back foot if your stance is with well