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Surfing. The pop up

Surf day 1550 July 2019
Last November I purchased a LUFI surf board. During the winter I purchased one more this time a Noose Secret 9.6. With this board I was surfing some 1.5 meter waves on the West coast during the winter.
What surprised  me most was the ease of holding the board when Eskimo roling. The ease of dropping down the wave and rarely pearling.
The ease of starting down the wave has something to with the special design of these boards. They simply work well with our wave conditions. On the following video you can see how easy the board is turning along the wave , just by me leaning a bit to the side I want to go.
Of course I should be on my  feet a lot earlier, but I do not find it that easy maybe the age of 71 years has some to do with it. Well, I am sure it has.
video/190414amado_fb.mp4  6Mb
On the next video I am using the white water from the wave to get me the first push. From then on I surf in front of the running white water, where there is a clean wall section. The board is remarkable stable, even if we are engulfed in white water.
video/20190408amado_movi.mp4  6Mb
It looks easy, no?
Update  Surf day 1298  August 2018
I have learned to do pop up in one sweeping movement. I can do it quite well on a board with a lot of rocker. Also I try to pop up just before the board start accelerating down the wave. On video 1, wave 1 and 2, I am  struggling to catch the wave . Wave 3 and four , I am hardly paddling, and still catching the wave. The 3 and 4 wave were steeper and had better shape, and I seem to be  getting it at the right place , that is, where the white water start. Also I am getting better at staying low just after pop up. Video 2 is just for fun
Video1    Video2
Update  Surf day 1156  August 2017
I am having some fun with a different pop up. I call it the "safe mode"
Pop up. It is best described with some video.
video    video    video    video
An other change. This fin is actually a nose rider fin. Makes the board very stable. Funny thing is that the board moves faster.
I later removed the 2 small side fins.
End Update  Surf day 1156
Update 2016 april

The above link is showing how older surfers and surfers with back problems  can benefit from using the knees during pop up

End update 2016 april
(update 2016 dec )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oABm4orYxlA  This pop up is called Chicken wing pop up. I sort of find it very good, And use it on my new Fatum Duke 7 feet board 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oABm4orYxlA  Chicken wing pop up.
(End update 2016 dec )
909 days update...
It is a bit frightening when you try to pop up correctly and then fall in front of the wave. Next thing the wave is breaking and you are sinking into the white water. I am using a surf  life vest for the same reason. I blow it up when I am sitting at the line up, using the mouth piece. Also i tend to lie on the board and " body board" down the wave, to see how things develope.
Here is a comment from my log:
I found that popping  up without a good steep wall of water, is difficult. There I prefer to use my knees. Big green waves takes les paddling and it is easy to pop up as the board is falling away under you, so you only have to pull the legs up under you.
Update after 780 days of surfing>>
 I can now do a proper pop up, without any discomfort, like back pain. I do not use it every time, only if the wave seems right. Which is a steepishof surfing wave.  It helped a lot when I started to do more regally exercise. Lying on the floor, then pulling the legs to a position under my body. I slide the feet on the floor. Use a pair of thick socks.
End update after 780 days>>

I have pretty much given up to do a proper pop up. Now I first get to my knees. But i am surfing, and catching a lot of wave.
If you are an older person like me  ( 64 years ) you can try doing the pop up more slowly using your knees.
I am experimenting with surfing the first part of the wave as a kneesurfer. As soon that I feel that I have the wave, I get to my knees. Lean to one side. You turn in that direction. If the wave looks as if it is just about to break, then I go straight down and lean back to keep the board from pearling.  Or hold in one rail ( rail grab ) to get a sharp turn
You then have more time to look around at the line up, if somebody are trying to take off from the same wave. Also you avoid a lot of nasty falls.
I believe older people simply have not got the fast reactions and the flexibility, as you find in a young person. Your surf style must therefore follow different rules.
A study has been made by North American Journal of Sports Physical Therapy  Also described how you can test yourself if you have enough flexibilliyty to make a proper pop up.
The pop up the way I do it. Video above.  January 2012. It is not the correct way of doing it, but it works.




It took a long time for me to figure out how to catch the green wave and surf the wall. I started to take photo series from other surfers and that was a good help.

 Wiew   From Portugal Octobre 2010

 Wiew   From Cantabria Northern Spain Septembre 2010

Wiew    From Cantabria Northern Spain Septembre 2010

Wiew    From Zavial Portugal February 2013



Turning, or changing direction with that surfboard has caused me a lot of problems. This is where I am now 2012 after 6 years of surfing. Board is 9 feet 2 inch.

Easy turn. Press with your toes or heels. Your feet must be at a close to 90 degree angle to the board diagonal line.

Sharp turn. Move the back foot more aft towards the fin. Kick the board to the new direction and move back foot back to maintain or gain speed.  When I say kick, it is because I am not sure what I am doing.
You may not need to move your back foot if your stance is with well spread feet.

The complete sequence
The first thing to do. Balance the board and find your position lying on the board. make a mark where your nose is , or similar. Now you are ready to catch some wave.
1.Lying on the board with the legs on the board as well ( longboard )
2. Wave approaching. Arch your back, Lift your head. Start paddling
3.When wave start to lift the board, you have  a critical moment where the nose of the board tend to lift and you loose the wave. To prevent this press torso down onto the  board, chin as well.
4.Place your hands below your rib cage, keep chin down doing so. Then stretch arms into "snake position" Most of your bodyweight should be on your arms now. This will make the ends of your board lighter and you will feel the nose of the board drop down the front of the wave, and the board start accelerate. While in the "snake position" check for traffic of other surfers, evaluate the wave, maybe press the rail the side you want to turn.
5. Pop up. Keep weight on your front foot to accelerate the board. And off you go.


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