Here is a record of what I have learned so far. Please remember that
this is my story. I am not trying to teach you to surf. Take classes.
Read books about surfing. Only reading these few pages is not enough.
There are quite a few of these. Some of these are serious. Drowning is no
fun for once. If you are not used to swim off the coast where you find
waves, then you need to start to familiarise yourself with the sea
It is important to
get used to hold your breath under the water. When you are falling in
front of a breaking wave, there are many bubbles in the water. You can
not swimm in bubbly water. You are sinking. The key point is to relax.
After a short time, the water is becoming " solid " again and you can surface.
Some surfers recomend grapping your leach and pulling yourself to the
board. I have tried that is a bad situation and it works.
It is a common
problem and there is a lot written about on the internet
As of 2014 I have seen that you can get
Being hit by a surfboard can cause
all sorts of damage. It can be other persons surfboard, or you can be
hit by your own board.
I use a soft top board still after 6
years from starting surfing. i also use a surf helmet. In strong
winds your board may fly upwards. I have been hit by my board twice in
Once i pulled the board towards me in the leach and the board hit my
Retina detachment is a serious aye
condition that untreated will leave you blind on the affected aye. Blows
to the head can lead to this condition, as well as other things. Warning
signs are increase amount of floaters and flashing bright light ( these
symptoms can be caused by other conditions as well PVD is one. PVD is
mainly happing for over 40 / 50 years )
Permanent dark spot in the aye , that does not move, is a very serious
warning sign. You must immediately get medical assistance.
Your board is
offering you safety. Do not let a breaking wave snap it out of your
hands. get a good grip around the front of the board, and try to duck
under incoming waves, or duck dive or Eskimo roll
,to tackle the big waves.
Where you have
waves and swell you get currents. Basically there are two types. Long
shore currents, that as the name indicated will set you parallel to the
beach. Rib currents are currents that takes you out to sea at a 90
degree angle to the beach. Ribs are dangerous if you panic.
They are hard to
spot. They can come and vanish. The trick is not to panic. Stay with
your board. The rib will eventually loose grip and you can paddle back
to shore at a different place. Or you can slowly work yourself out of
the grip by paddling at an angle to the current.
ashore to trace your drift. Once out of the current, paddle back to the
shore. You should have some swell pushing you. Just keep your head calm,
and you will be fine.
Big waves create
stronger currents, so as a beginner, stay away if the sea is rough. Take
a friend along, or surf where there are other surfers already. Paddle
over and say "Hi". They like the safety of other surfers as well.
Surfing in Europe
the water is too cold for sharks. Something you need to consider if you
are in warm water.
We have the danger
of hypothermia. The water is too cold. You need protection in some form of a
neoprene surf suit. Ask around for the thickness used in
your area. Also it depends if you are planning to surf summer and
winter, or only summers.
are medusa jelly fish in the water. They sting if you touch them, or get
near them. Not all the types. It is often general knowledge, which ones
are the dangerous ones, so ask around.
Some places you
have a small fish with a pointed back fin. It hides in the sand bottom
and if you step on one, and they give you a sting, you need to go to a
doctor, or a hospital fast.
Sunburn. Easy to avoid you think.
Just use sun cream. You will find however, that it can irritate the ayes
Try one of the following names. Dr.
Hauschka / Lavera /Santé. Their sun protections are
based on natural components, and they will not irritate the ayes
These are the dangers I have learned to look out for.
When walking out from the beach, watch out not to hit the bottom with a
straight locked leg. This
cam give knee damage. Also if using a
heavy board, place the leach right under the knee, or above your knee.
Not at your ancle.
The heavy board can pull and twist your leg and cause damage.
Last but not least.
Start with a surf school that have
experience with the special needs towards older people.