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Here is a record of what I have learned so far. Please remember that
this is my story. I am not trying to teach you to surf. Take classes.
Read books about surfing. Only reading these few pages is not enough..
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Dangers:
There are quite a few of these. Some of these are serious. Drowning is no
fun for once. If you are not used to swim off the coast where you find
waves, then you need to start to familiarise yourself with the sea
first.
Where you have
waves and swell you get currents. Basically there are two types. Long
shore currents, that as the name indicated will set you parallel to the
beach. Rib currents are currents that takes you out to sea at a 90
degree angle to the beach. Ribs are dangerous if you panic.
They are hard to
spot. They can come and vanish. The trick is not to panic. Stay with
your board. The rib will eventually loose grip and you can paddle back
to shore at a different place. Or you can slowly work yourself out of
the grip by paddling at an angle to the current.
Use makings
ashore to trace your drift. Once out of the current, paddle back to the
shore. You should have some swell pushing you. Just keep your head calm,
and you will be fine.
Big waves create
stronger currents, so as a beginner, stay away if the sea is rough. Take
a friend along, or surf where there are other surfers already. Paddle
over and say "Hi". They like the safety of other surfers as well.
Surfing in Europe
the water is too cold for sharks. Something you need to consider if you
are in warm water.
We have the danger
of hypothermia. The water is too cold. You need protection in some form of a
neoprene surf suit. Ask around for the thickness used in
your area. Also it depends if you are planning to surf summer and
winter, or only summers.
Sometimes there
are medusa jelly fish in the water. They sting if you touch them, or get
near them. Not all the types. It is often general knowledge, which ones
are the dangerous ones, so ask around.
Some places you
have a small fish with a pointed back fin. It hides in the sand bottom
and if you step on one, and they give you a sting, you need to go to a
doctor, or a hospital fast.
Sunburn. Easy to avoid you think.
Just use sun cream. You will find however, that it can irritate the ayes
a lot.
Try one of the following names. Dr.
Hauschka / Lavera /Santé. Their sun protections are
based on natural components, and they will not irritate the ayes
These are the dangers I have learned to look out for.
The surf board can be dangerous as well, but more about that later.
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