next thing I purchased was a 8 feet 4 Inch board. That was the biggest
board I could get.
I was looking for a 10 feet, but it was just to complicated to get that
First I just
started paddling around on flat water, trying to get the feel and
I then took a
private teacher for some hours, mainly to give me a brief on the safety
aspects. I would have liked more tuition,
but I was in Denmark and there was no proper swell.
I used recognised
surf spots to start with. You soon learn to spot the other learners there. Then I
stayed close to them and from then on it was watch and practise.
That worked well in Denmark. There is no problem
with crowds. The reason for the lack of crowd is that the
swell is not consistent.
In France, where I
went later, some places were crowded. In North
Aquitane I found the best places for my ability. Amely Plage has
everything a learner needs. However stay away from mid July till towards
end of August.
realized that most surf spots you read about in books and on the
internet, are far to complicated for a learner.
Especially if you
start at a high age it is very time consuming to learn. After 1 and half
month practise every day I was able to surf on my knees.
After 2 years I felt like being in
the doldrums. Not sure if I was doing it right or wrong. Over the
following year I took 8 weekly courses. Some with groups, some with
private lessons. Especially the private lessons lead me back on track.
In August 2010 I quit my job and moved to Portugal. There I stayed for a
year. During that stay I almost quit surfing. I was having
problems with the pop up.
Eventually I started to create my own surf style. Adapted to the les
flexibility and less strength of my body. Also I got a bigger board with
This was a important turnaround.